METHOD FOR PLOTTING TROUSERS PATTERN Russian patent published in 2003 - IPC

FIELD: sewing industry. SUBSTANCE: method involves plotting basic grid composed of horizontal lines of waist, hips, gluteal fold, knee, lower region, and vertical lines defining width of pelvic region and position of front and rear halves folds; forming step, side, middle and waist lines; measuring total width of front and rear halves by hip lines, sitting height and length of front half fold line; measuring inclination balances as distances between outer points of front half middle line, outer points of rear half middle line, highest points of step and side lines of rear half, highest points of step and side lines of front half, lowest point of step line and highest point of front half side line, lowest point of side line of rear half and highest point of rear half side line; measuring quality criteria C₁, C₂, C₃ from formulae: , where d is distance from highest point of trousers side cut to highest point of rear half step cut; Sh is sitting height of front half; h is distance from highest point of trousers side cut to highest point of step cut of front half; M_f is measurement feature of figure "Hip half-embrace"; AM_f is additional measurement feature of figure "Hip half-embrace"; c is distance from highest cut of rear half to lowest point of middle cut; a is distance from highest cut of front half to lowest point of middle cut; n is shortest distance from highest point of trousers side seam to lowest point of rear half step seam; e is shortest distance from highest point of trousers side seam to lowest point of front half step seam; L is length of fold line of front half; comparing resultant values of quality criteria with optimal values for selected size of user's figure and, in case of non-coincidence, correcting pattern drawings with the use of known design methods until coincidence of design and optimal criteria is achieved. EFFECT: improved fit of trousers and simplified pattern plotting and correction. 3 dwg