METHOD FOR PLOTTING OF COLLAR PATTERN Russian patent published in 2007 - IPC A41H3/00 

FIELD: sewing industry.

SUBSTANCE: method involves choosing clothing model; determining basic parameters of collar; plotting constructive points and lines on surface of figure shoulder girdle and collar models from respective points and lines of mannequin figure; rigidly fixing shape of reference lines of surface of figure and collar models, followed by converting shape of parts of surface of collar model into flat parts of patterns; smoothing contours and drawing patterns; additionally drawing and fixing on model radial lines of shoulder surface of figure; drawing contour folding lines of collar and seam lines for stitching of upright along upright generatrices, said lines being drawn at predetermined angles to base of neck line; drawing contour line of fly-off part edge through intersection points of fly-off part generatrices and radial lines of figure at a distance from collar folding line, said distance being dependent upon length of fly-off part generatrices; calculating forming angle for each portion of surface of collar upright and fly-off part restricted by adjacent generatrices from value of growth of inclination angle of portion generatrix to tangent at initial plotting point; plotting flat blanks of pattern portions of collar parts along lengths of generatrices and portions of contour lines, followed by transforming through conical diversion of inner portions of upright blanks and fly-off part by respective forming angles.

EFFECT: wider range of usage, improved quality of patterns by taking into account factor of workability of contour constructive lines and coefficients of proportionality and quality of reproducing predetermined geometric shape characteristics of collar parts and parts of shoulder surface of figure.

12 dwg, 3 tbl