METHOD FOR PLOTTING OF RAGLAN-CUT CLOTHE PATTERN Russian patent published in 2004 - IPC

FIELD: sewing industry. SUBSTANCE: method involves calculating values of constructive allowances and construction parameters necessary for plotting thereof after quantitative analysis of graphical image shape by determining front width of model at the level of chest perimeter, inclination angle of sleeve upper cut, width of sleeve at throat line, value of article arm hole deflection, ; converting resultant values by means of module into natural value and determining from mathematical expressions allowance and main parameter values of construction; initially calculating front width of individual's figure at the level of chest parameter from mathematical expression: W_x = 0,5(a+b•P_c3), where P_c3 - is chest perimeter (third), a,b are coefficients dependent upon type of body built; determining front air gap value; calculating allowance for shoulder perimeter from formula: A_sp = c+d•G_a where G_a - is front air gap; c,d are coefficients taking into account degree of freedom of article with respect to individual's figure; determining allowance for chest half perimeter (third) from formula: A_chp3 = k+e•A_fp, where k, e are coefficients taking into account degree of freedom of article with respect to individual's figure; calculating allowance for arm hole freedom from formula: A_fhf = m+n•A_chp3, where m,n are coefficients taking into account degree of freedom of article with respect to individual's figure; determining inclination angle of sleeve upper cut in construction from mathematical expression on the basis of formula: β_к = p+r•β_i, where β_i - inclination angle of upper deflection in accordance with graphical image; p, r are coefficients taking into account thickness of layer for shoulder; calculating arm hole deflection; determining maximal width of sleeve on throat portion; plotting basis grid for designing base construction with the use of known formulae and procedures; forming contour lines of raglan-cut article construction; plotting rear and front parts of sleeve. EFFECT: increased efficiency in providing maximal correspondence of ready model to selected graphical image. 4 dwg