METHOD FOR PROCESSING OF SLEEVE BOTTOM IN ARTICLES OF COAT-SUIT RANGE FROM CLOAK AND JACKET MATERIALS (EMBODIMENTS) Russian patent published in 2020 - IPC A41D3/00 

FIELD: textile.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to sewing industry, in particular, to methods for processing structural units of garments of coats and suits, in particular, to the processing of the sleeve bottom of a straight cut, which makes it comfortable to wear the said articles from cloak and jacket materials. According to the method, parts of sleeves, linings of sleeves, heat-insulating gaskets made of synthetic gas are cut out, which repeats the part of the sleeve either completely or with allowance of 1 cm on the side of the lower cut, and two pieces of elastic tape are prepared with length equal to the wrist circumference with allowance of 2–3 cm. Warming gasket is applied on the hose part from the back side, by combining the parts along the edge of the shell and side sections, at that, the lower edge of the lining is either aligned with the lower edge of the hose part, or is placed so that its bottom section protruded beyond the bottom of sleeve at 1 cm. Obtained inner package of materials is quilted by a decorative stitch or leaves the folded layers of materials unconnected depending on the version. Sleeve of the sleeve is hooked to the allowance for hem of the sleeve, the elastic tape is applied on the wrong side of the stock allowance for hemming of the sleeve. In the case of a wide elastic tape, lower edge of the braid is aligned with the line of the sleeve and is fed with three parallel stitches. Narrow elastic band is sewn with two parallel stitches, combining the upper edge of the elastic band with the seam of the backing. Then the parts of the sleeve with the heat-insulating lining and the lining lined with the bottom are folded with the inside sides, the lower sections of the sleeve top and the lining are stitched with one line by 1 cm-wide suture, simultaneously cutting the elastic tape sections. Lowering allowance of the bottom of the sleeve is bent along the bottom line. Suturing allowance of the lining is attached to the bottom of the sleeve to allowances of the lower seam from the back side and the allowances of the lower seam of the sleeve and the lining are fixed.

EFFECT: technical result is simplification of method due to elimination of complex machine operations, reduced labour costs during its implementation and reduced consumption of material with simultaneous improvement of ergonomic properties of article.

2 cl, 6 dwg