EVALUATION METHOD FOR DEFORMATION PROPERTIES OF FILAMENT JOINTS OF APPAREL PARTS Russian patent published in 2017 - IPC G01N33/36 

FIELD: textile; paper.

SUBSTANCE: during the setting and drawing of layers of joined material, for the purpose of evaluation of longitudinal deformation of filament joins of apparel parts, the definition of the magnitude of setting and drawing of a rectilinear plain seam of 200 mm length, which is made on a sewing machine, is used. Whereupon, paired samples constitute 1/4 circle fan-shaped form, where strips located in the direction of 0-90° towards the longitudinal direction of a material with the 10° spacing and 20 mm width converging to the center of the circle, represent the top part of the fan. The magnitudes of drawing of the material layers and setting of the bottom layer are calculated before and after the steaming and integrated diagrams of anisotropy of the longitudinal deformation of filament joints before and after the steaming are built-up according to the results of calculations. The evaluation method for the longitudinal deformation of filament joints is different in that the strips of the top part of the fan may be cut in the direction of 90-180°, 180-270°, or 270-360° towards the longitudinal direction of the material with the 10° spacing. The integrated diagrams of anisotropy of the longitudinal deformation of filament joints of apparel parts before and after the steaming are built-up according to the results of calculations. Therefore, by changing of sample shape, it is possible to reduce the number of samples, whereupon, the said method allows reasonable evaluation of the longitudinal deformation of filament joints of apparel parts by means of increasing of the number of changes. The information on anisotropy of the longitudinal deformation of filament joints of apparel parts before and after the steaming provides the possibility to predict quality of an apparel at the stage of design and reasonably select sewing equipment and process modes for filament joint performing.

EFFECT: invention allows predicting quality of an apparel at the stage of design.

2 cl, 1 tbl, 3 dwg, 1 ex